By Tracie Schmidt

On top of Imogene Pass in the San Juan Mountains of Colorado, just above 13,000 feet, there’s a battered mailbox. Why it’s there is a mystery, but travelers who reach the summit have been known to leave messages in it. I stood in front of it, breathless, wondering what I’d write.

“I made it!” or, “Hey God, it’s Tracie.”

Up there, the world I left behind felt far away, and the potential for discovery limitless. I could write about the journey up by jeep across rocky ledges, through abandoned mining camps, past cascades and quiet cedar forests turning gold. Or about exploring the depths of a mine in Ouray, or standing on a dizzying precipice in the Black Canyon near Montrose, with the Gunnison River that carved it only a sliver ribbon lost in its shadow.

For outdoor adventure seekers, Ouray and Montrose offer a chance to explore the rugged beauty of the San Juans and learn about the history of the pioneering people who made it their home.

Mining Town History

Ouray was established in the late 1800s as a mining settlement. Spared from the fires that often claimed other towns of the era, many of Ouray’s original structures, like the County Courthouse where scenes from the film True Grit starring John Wayne were filmed, still stand. A great way to learn about its history is to take a stagecoach tour with the Ouray Mule and Carriage Company. Originally a supplier for pack mules, the historic livery now shows visitors around.

Inside The Ouray County Historical Society Museum, once the original St. Joseph’s Miners’ Hospital, you can find trappings of the Victorian era, mine workers’ tools, Ute Indian artifacts, mineral samples and exhibits on ranching and the railroad. Preserved hospital rooms serve as a reminder of how dangerous mining could be.

For a true miner’s perspective, you can take a tour of the Bachelor-Syracuse Mine. I donned a hard hat and climbed into a mine cart that traveled over a quarter mile into the side of Gold Hill. Inside, surrounded by the weight of miles of stone, complete darkness and an unearthly silence, our guide paused and shone a light onto the ceiling, revealing white crystal deposits that shimmered like ice.

Antique hand drills and steam-powered tools rested in a tunnel branch. Complications with equipment, cave-ins, disease and thin air were only some of the dangers the miners faced on a regular basis, our guide explained. The life expectancy of a miner was short, but if he managed to survive long enough, he went home a richer man for his trouble.

Outdoor Adventures

Ouray’s natural treasures draw visitors as well. In addition to scenic jeep tours by Switzerland of America, one can choose several hikes from town like Box Canyon Falls trail, which took me through a cascade-carved ravine, across a bridge that overlooks the town, through an old stone tunnel and back into Ouray. During the winter, the town has its own ice-climbing wall and offers lessons for all skill levels.

If you have some riding experience, head up to Bach’lers Stable and ask for Poste. He’ll be more than happy to regale you with tales of his cowboy days as he takes you on a horseback trail through the mountains.

And after a long day outdoors, the Ouray Hot Springs Pool is a welcome relief. The shallow soaking areas are easily accessible, and the naturally heated waters range from 96 to 106 degrees. Box Canyon Lodge and Best Western also have hot springs on-site.
 
Around The City

In Ouray, shops and great restaurants like Outlaw, Bon Ton, O’Brien’s and Buen Tiempo are all within walking distance. At Ourayle House, James Hutchinson ziplines down the bar and pours his uniquely-named microbrews, each categorized by taste and “slamability quotient.”

The China Clipper Inn was my home during my stay, and owners Hans and Ingrid Vander Ploeg welcome each guest with warmth and hospitality. Rooms are spacious, decorated in the style of an elegant ship captain’s quarters, and offer views of the surrounding mountains.

Ouray also offers access to the Million Dollar Highway, a scenic drive that connects several local towns and boasts some of the most dramatic vistas in the country.

Exploring Montrose

From its founding, the nearby valley city of Montrose has been a bridge to the mining towns of the San Juan mountains. Now it offers access to ski destinations like Telluride, the town of Ouray and Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. However, there’s plenty to see and do in Montrose itself.

The Montrose museum tells the story of the city’s growth through a civil engineering marvel of the early 1900s – the construction of the Gunnison Tunnel – a waterway that was carved out of the Black Canyon to bring water from the remote Gunnison River to farmland in the valley. Because of this, the valley is rich in agricultural history, and local farms and wineries invite exploration.

Kerry Mattics owns Mattics Orchard, a small land production of seasonal fruits and vegetables that takes only a truck to deliver into town. Visitors are welcome, and you can find his stand at the Farmer’s Market twice a week until October.

From April to December, the tasting room is open at The Olathe Winery. Diana Read and her husband make 18 different wines with grapes grown on-site. Read emphasizes how well their wines pair with food and comes up with some remarkable combinations. “My husband makes good wine,” Read laughs. “When it comes to my favorite, it’s a case of, ‘what are we eating?’”

In town, Smugglers Brew Pub boasts award-winning original beers, and Caswellas offers international cuisine with a creative twist on Asian dishes.

Black Canyon of the Gunnison

Visiting the Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park felt like traveling deep into Earth’s history. A short drive out of Montrose, this unique park gives geologists a chance to study exposed rock as old as 1.7 billion years. Named the Black Canyon for the dark shadows in the gorge, it’s 48 miles long and 2,722 feet at its deepest point, formed by volcanic action and erosion from the Gunnison River. I had a chance to explore the south rim of the canyon, which offers hiking trails of varying length and difficulty as well as some breathtaking viewpoints. Painted Rock, a landmark of the canyon, can be found there, named for the light-colored bands of minerals deposited when magma was forced through fissures in the stone.

Fly fishing is also popular in the Gunnison River, and one of the best ways to experience it is to take a lesson or charter an excursion with Bob from Cimarron Creek. He breaks techniques down to simple steps and can show you how to find the “sweet spot” when casting. “The idea is to make fly fishing accessible to everybody, no matter their experience,” Bob said.

To start your own adventure, visit www.ouraycolorado.com or www.visitmontrose.com for more information.